Inbound CID ...Possible fix.

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HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

gillist419 wrote:Does anyone have one of these resistors soldered and ready to go that they would like to sell me?

Yeah my caller ID doesn't work all the time ( about 70% of the time it works), and I'm kinda lazy. So if anyone wants to sell me one that would be great.
Check out my post on this site it will show you how to do it with out any soldering.


http://unofficialmagicjack2.proboards10 ... &thread=37
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
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gillist419
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Post by gillist419 »

I think you can chalk me up as another success story. I put a 100k ohm 1/4 watt resistor on it today and made a half dozen or so calls to the phone. All where successful! Both caller ids on the phone and t.v.!

So thanks to everybody. Big thanks to HolmanGT. I used your advice, and it worked like a charm. No soldering and the whole thing only cost me $12.00! :D
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

gillist419 wrote:I think you can chalk me up as another success story. I put a 100k ohm 1/4 watt resistor on it today and made a half dozen or so calls to the phone. All where successful! Both caller ids on the phone and t.v.!

So thanks to everybody. Big thanks to HolmanGT. I used your advice, and it worked like a charm. No soldering and the whole thing only cost me $12.00! :D

Gill,

Glad it worked for you. I had been looking for a solder-less gadget for a long time and just accidentally stumbled on them at Wal-Mart of all places.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
bigmjfan
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Post by bigmjfan »

My Dell Latitude D610 laptop was behaving like others have posted. The caller-id would work while running on the battery (only found this out from reading previous posts) but not on the ac adapter. After installing the 100k ohm resistor it now works either way! Thanks to the person who figured this out. My wife will be very happy about this.
Sincerely,
BigMJFan
edsiajb
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Post by edsiajb »

I did the resistor inside the coupler trick by soldering (wow...my eyes aren't what they used to be!). It works great! Now, if I could just find a remedy for that repetitive, stuttering echo problem (which seems to be worse in the evenings).
the_Tango
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Post by the_Tango »

HolmanGT wrote:
TheShanMan wrote:Got my magicjack a month or so ago and am having this problem. Will be trying the fix soon, and will report back on results, but I'm expecting success based on the high success rate I'm seeing in this thread! Thanks all!

Bummer about the CID name though. :(
It will show the caller ID name if and only if you have it entered into your telephones phone book.

I have heard the are some carriers that send both name and number but it is also my understanding that some just send the number and expect your phone to pickup and add the name.
What I consider CallerID does NOT work (with or without) the name in the contact list. For me ONLY the number shows up NOT the name. Since I get the number does this mean that the resitor fix doesn't apply to me?

I do get caller number.
I do NOT get the caller name.

Hay I'm old with only three brain cells that still work - I need the names. Worked just fine with landline.

TIA
LH
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100k Resistor

Post by LH »

I used the 100k resistor 1/2 watts and installed it on one of my phone jacks by poping
the cover off and losing the screws and placeing the resistor across the two screws and tighting them
back down. Not only did it fix the caller id on that phone but all the phone in my house that
were not working before.

LH
kcpopps
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Post by kcpopps »

I have successfully added the resistor too. I bought a coupler but could not get the thing to come apart like is shown in the photo on page 1. In fact I broke the thing - so I just soldered the resistor directly into the phone line and it seems to be working fine now

Thanks very much for sharing the info!
mikengray
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Didn't work for me! :(

Post by mikengray »

Ok, so I followed the instructions and soldered a 100k Ohm resistor between the green and red wires on my coupler. However, when I connected the Magicjack to the coupler and the coupler to the phone, the phones instantly started saying "Line in use" and won't ring when I try to call it. It also give me a busy signal when I try and dial out. The one difference between the reports of the working ones and mine is that I didn't check the wattage of the resistor before purchasing it. I ended up with a 1W resistor, instead of a 1/2 or 1/4 Watt resistor. Don't know if thats the difference or not. Any advice out there? ....nothing worse than being the FIRST guy NOT to get it to work :(
-Mike
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laserjobs
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Re: Didn't work for me! :(

Post by laserjobs »

mikengray wrote:Ok, so I followed the instructions and soldered a 100k Ohm resistor between the green and red wires on my coupler. However, when I connected the Magicjack to the coupler and the coupler to the phone, the phones instantly started saying "Line in use" and won't ring when I try to call it. It also give me a busy signal when I try and dial out. The one difference between the reports of the working ones and mine is that I didn't check the wattage of the resistor before purchasing it. I ended up with a 1W resistor, instead of a 1/2 or 1/4 Watt resistor. Don't know if thats the difference or not. Any advice out there? ....nothing worse than being the FIRST guy NOT to get it to work :(
-Mike
The wattage will not matter. Are you positive you have a 100K ohm not a 100 ohm resistor?

100k will not look off hook but 100 will
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Post by momo »

mikengray

are there color bands around the resistor (if it's not printed on it as 100k)

brown - red - orange

starting with the band closer to one end as being the first band.

if you see more than 3 bands of color, just ignore the ones after the 1st 3


(if it's brown-red-brown ... it's a 100 ohm)
(if it's brown-red-black .... it's a 10 ohm)
mikengray
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Still no CID :(

Post by mikengray »

Ok so maybe I *AM* as dumb as I look... :( I couldn't find the bag for the resistors, but the Fry's receipt said 100 Ohm, so I'm assuming I didn't get the 100k Ohm resistors. Regardless, I went to Radio Shack today and *MADE SURE* I got the 100k Ohm resistors and replaced the one I had. Unfortunately, I still have no CID. All I get on my phone is "Incoming Call", which is what I get without the resistor on the line. So either the resistor I put on there is faulty, which I can replace with another to test, or my phones are just not the type to play nice with this setup.....
I'll post another report after I replace yet another resistor.
Thanks!
-Mike
mikengray
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No luck :(

Post by mikengray »

Ok, I must've been born under a dark cloud. I replaced the resistor with another 100k Ohm one from the new pack I bought, and I get the same result. My phone simply says "Incoming Call" rather than providing any CID info. :( I guess I'll have to borrow a phone from a friend and see if its the type of phone I'm using.
Any other ideas, oh great Magicjack gurus??
-Mike
wag
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Post by wag »

momo wrote:mikengray

are there color bands around the resistor (if it's not printed on it as 100k)

brown - red - orange

starting with the band closer to one end as being the first band.

if you see more than 3 bands of color, just ignore the ones after the 1st 3


(if it's brown-red-brown ... it's a 100 ohm)
(if it's brown-red-black .... it's a 10 ohm)
100k is Brown-Black-Yellow.
momo
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Post by momo »

wag wrote:
momo wrote:mikengray

are there color bands around the resistor (if it's not printed on it as 100k)

brown - red - orange

starting with the band closer to one end as being the first band.

if you see more than 3 bands of color, just ignore the ones after the 1st 3


(if it's brown-red-brown ... it's a 100 ohm)
(if it's brown-red-black .... it's a 10 ohm)
100k is Brown-Black-Yellow.
OOPS ... you're right :oops:
no more technical posts at after 3:AM for me ... :D

100 ohm is brown - black - brown
10 ohms is brown - black - black

(i hope this was at least right :) )
mysterious711
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Post by mysterious711 »

Bingo...

CID now displays on all phones in my house with the MagicCIDfix :)

total cost to mod - $2.00 + Taxes

Radio Shack - 5 pack of Resistors - 0.99

DollarTree (where everything is a dollar) - Phone extend block - 1.00

Now the CID works like a charm.
jaihawk
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Post by jaihawk »

OMGosh it worked, I was surprised. All I ended up doing was clip a phone cable apart then rewire them back together but including the 100k ohm jumper. No soldering even required. Thanks for this information!
tillithz
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Post by tillithz »

hey i dont know if this was mentioned, but are you using a straight through or crossover phone cable? basically if the polarity is not proper to YOUR phone, the phone wont show properly. might want to look into it, i believe its suppose to be a positive polarity thats plugging into your phone base.
Silent_Gunfighter
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Post by Silent_Gunfighter »

I have read all of the threads and have not seen what I have been experiencing. I have my MJ setup on and old Del Desktop and has been working fine for Months now. Caller ID worked for a little while but stopped. I have a cordless phone system (four phones) and have the base directly attached to the MJ. I tried the resistor fix on a 4 wire cord and only used the red/green wires and cut off the other two. I used a solderless crimp connection (Blue) and wrapped with electrical tape making sure there was no exposed or shorted wires. When I use this wire and connect it to my MJ (from my base unit), my MJ only works with the softphone. I can make one call from the cordless phone (any of the four) and then in order to hang up I have to use the soft phone. Incoming calls only pop the softphone interface and does not ring the phones.

My questions are:
1 - does this fix only apply to a whole house wired solution?
2 - Has anyone seen this happen and does anyone have a suggestion as I would love to be able to have caller id working.

Thx
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

Silent_Gunfighter,

I don't know why it suddenly stopped, maybe a Server problem. (???)

But as far as what your phone is doing or not doing now, you must have screwed something up.

Back out all that you have changed/modified and see if you phone starts working again and for the moment ignore the Caller ID piece of the puzzle.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
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HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

tillithz wrote:hey i dont know if this was mentioned, but are you using a straight through or crossover phone cable? basically if the polarity is not proper to YOUR phone, the phone wont show properly. might want to look into it, i believe its suppose to be a positive polarity thats plugging into your phone base.
I don't disagree with your premise but you have to identify what is positive and what is negative.

To just say the phone has to be wired to a positive polarity is ambiguous at best.

Also I have never seen a "Phone Crossover Cable", what would be it purpose?

1. Green & Red is Line 1 the Green wire is positive in respect to the Red.

2. Black & Yellow is Line 2 the Black wire is positive in respect to the Yellow.

3. And none of the wires have a ground reference, in fact if you inadvertently connect one leg to ground you will unbalance the system and experience noise problems like you have never heard before


PS - most moder (last 15 years) phone equipment doesn't care about polarity. They are self rewiring thru a diode bridge.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
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Silent_Gunfighter
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Post by Silent_Gunfighter »

HolmanGT,
Thanks for the input. I neglected to mention that I had confirmed that it was the new phone line that I had put in as I brought everything back to the working condition and could repeat the problem. On a positive note, you were right, I did screw something up. When I went to radio shack and asked for a 100k resistor and the clerk handed it to me with a receipt for a 100k resister I just assumed it was a 100k resistor. I failed to check the actual package. I guess we know what a 1k resistor does now. Sorry for the wasted brain cycles on this non-issue as if your like me, I only have a limited number of cycles left...

Thx

S_G
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

Silent_Gunfighter wrote:HolmanGT,
Thanks for the input. I neglected to mention that I had confirmed that it was the new phone line that I had put in as I brought everything back to the working condition and could repeat the problem. On a positive note, you were right, I did screw something up. When I went to radio shack and asked for a 100k resistor and the clerk handed it to me with a receipt for a 100k resister I just assumed it was a 100k resistor. I failed to check the actual package. I guess we know what a 1k resistor does now. Sorry for the wasted brain cycles on this non-issue as if your like me, I only have a limited number of cycles left...

Thx

S_G
Well I grew up in the sixties and seventies so you can image where all my brain cells went - some strange side effect of Smoke & Alcohol, at least that is what the police and ER doctors used to tell me, but what the heck do they know.

I was going to ask you if it was really a 100K Ohm resistor but figured I had been insulting enough so I didn't mention it. However watch out for Radio Shack salesmen (kids). The normal response I get to where do you keep your resistors is "Resistor hmmm, ah, I don't think we carry those anymore." :?
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
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ruizesparza
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Inbound CID fix Made Easier (no soldering required)

Post by ruizesparza »

My Caller ID wasn't working on my Uniden phone, so I decided to try snafu2's fix.

I was going to try it without soldering just to see if it was going to work for me, but as I was doing it I thought that the test version was going to work better for me NO SOLDERING, NO WIRE CUTTING, NO TAPING, NO MAGICKJACK OPENING, etc.

Just look at the pictures, the speak for themselves.

I'm new to this, I just got my MJ 2 days ago and I'm loving this form, Thank You Guys.




Image (alt+p)[/img][/code]
moorreese
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Post by moorreese »

Im not very good at doing these sort of things. Does anyone have an extra one of these things lying around that i could buy from them?
Boondocs
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Post by Boondocs »

Worked great for me.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

Image

Image


Gentlemen, we need to keep up the appearance that we are "Professional Geeks" - "What have class".

$3 dollars at Wal-Mart and you will never have intermittent problems.


PS - The grammatical play was intentional, although I can usually do just as well when not trying to hamburger the English language. :oops:

Actually I just wanted a chance to show off my genuine plastic fake oak desktop. But I still have class because right below the plastic sticky back coating is (Drum Roll) - Real particle board. Oh - and my ability to take really bad pictures with a really expensive camera. :cry:
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
Magicjackernc
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Post by Magicjackernc »

Am wanting to do this fix but am lost. Have read and re-read all nine pages of posts in the thread but feel lost.

A poster went to Radio shack and purchased resistors and to dollar tree for a phone extend block.... but another poster got this thing in the picture above(is that a phone extend block?)

I have a solder gun but just don't know what to do when I get the products in front of me.

Since this product will get more and more popular(and many more visits to this thread for help)...can someone take the time to write out step by step instructions - as if talking to a child?
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

Magicjackernc wrote:Am wanting to do this fix but am lost. Have read and re-read all nine pages of posts in the thread but feel lost.

A poster went to Radio shack and purchased resistors and to dollar tree for a phone extend block.... but another poster got this thing in the picture above(is that a phone extend block?)

I have a solder gun but just don't know what to do when I get the products in front of me.

Since this product will get more and more popular(and many more visits to this thread for help)...can someone take the time to write out step by step instructions - as if talking to a child?
Please refere to the pictures of the Philips J-box a couple of post up.

The adapter box is manufactured by “Philips, Inc.”
Mfg. part number: SDj6013W/17

The only place I have seen this in a store is at Wal-Mart. (any similar duplex jack should work just fine).

The resistor you need is a 100, 000 ohm (100K Ohm, color code brown (1) black (0) yellow (0000) = 100000 ohms (if there is a fourth color band just ignore it, it is the band that tells you the precision of the resistor and is of no consequence to us). If you buy it at Radio Shack make sure it is one hundred thousand ohms. The package they come in should confirm this. Don’t buy a single resistor even if you can save 50 cents. Once it is removed from the package I can guarantee you the average Radio Shack employee will not be able to read it and tell you for sure what value it is. If you get the wrong value it will not hurt anything but you will be making another trip back to Radio Shack.

Now for the easy part, the assembly. As in the picture you just add the resistor across the Red and Green wires. Loosen the screws (don’t take them all the way out you just want to raise the screw head high enough to allow the resistor wire to slip under the screw head.

Rap the resistor wire around the screw with the rap going in the same direction that the screw will turn when you tighten it. You will notice that the direct the resistor raps is from the bottom clockwise on the left screw on the left in the picture and from the top clockwise on the right screw in the picture. If you follow my instructions here it will insure that the screws pull the resistor leads in close and tight as you tighten them. Seem like an incidental detail but it is really important if you want it to work for a long time without any intermittent problems.

Then plug your telephone into one of the ports and your magic jack into the other. It doesn’t make any difference which goes into which; they are just parallel to each other.

PS – if you don’t have any wire cutters to trim the excess resistor leads off after you have it assembled the unit just snip the ends off with a pair of fingernail clippers. The wire is soft tin plated copper and should be no problem for a pair of nail clippers. Just be careful not to snip anything but the tail end of the resistor, if you get any of the other wires at the same time it will get to make another trip to Wal-Mart.

Also the Philips adapter is kept in the same place with all the other telephone extensions and wall plates in Wal-Mart.
Last edited by HolmanGT on Mon Dec 08, 2008 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
gots2go
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Post by gots2go »

Thank's George for taking the time to write this up. I do think this may need to be stickied and closed so your detailed post doesn't get lost.

gottago
MJ user since 5/08
Arthur1959
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Works like a Charm

Post by Arthur1959 »

I did it just like Holman GT said and now I have caller ID.
Thanks!

Art
HolmanGT
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Re: Works like a Charm

Post by HolmanGT »

Arthur1959 wrote:I did it just like Holman GT said and now I have caller ID.
Thanks!

Art
I just love complements, albeit I will have to let my ball cap out a snap or two. 8)
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
moorreese
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Post by moorreese »

I tired the coupler fix and after about 5 minutes my power strip started smoking and stopped working. What went wrong?
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

moorreese wrote:I tired the coupler fix and after about 5 minutes my power strip started smoking and stopped working. What went wrong?
I sure hope you are kidding? But I can assure you it had nothing to do with the resistor FIX. Even if you shorted the phone wires together it is current limited so not only would it not smoke your power strip it would even hurt your MJ.

Reason for the smoked power strip "Bad day at Black Rock" or something along those lines. (no pun intended).
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
moorreese
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Post by moorreese »

I couldnt believe it either, but i put the coupler on and walked away and about 5 minutes later, i started smelling smoke. I went into my room and everything that was plugged up to the power strip was off and there was smoke coming from it. Not a lot of smoke. I unplugged it and plugged up another power strip just to make sure that nothing else was damaged and everything else came back on. I dont know if it was the cordless phone or the computer that caused the coupler to overheat, but it was either one or the other.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

moorreese wrote:I couldnt believe it either, but i put the coupler on and walked away and about 5 minutes later, i started smelling smoke. I went into my room and everything that was plugged up to the power strip was off and there was smoke coming from it. Not a lot of smoke. I unplugged it and plugged up another power strip just to make sure that nothing else was damaged and everything else came back on. I dont know if it was the cordless phone or the computer that caused the coupler to overheat, but it was either one or the other.
moorreese,

Was it the phone coupler or the power strip that over heated? It is like almost impossible for the phone coupler to over heat. Now the power strip especially if it is a surge protected type has lost of components in it that could fail and heat up producing smoke. Albeit most power strips that I am aware of have fused circuits.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
moorreese
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Post by moorreese »

It is the power strip that overheated. It is not a surge protector, it was a cheap one from the dollar store.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

moorreese wrote:It is the power strip that overheated. It is not a surge protector, it was a cheap one from the dollar store.
Yes but even the cheap ones that don't claim anything special are fused and usually have a "Varistor" to limit power spikes.

It is usually the Varistor that goes, but the fuse or circuit breaker should have caught it.

Open it up and you should fine a coil and a varistor. The varistors are usually red (in you case it may now be black). In any case it should show signs of damage (burnt). Please do this checking while the strip is unplugged I don't want to lose a soul before we eve get to know each other. :-(

PS the normal failure mode for a Varistor is shorted.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
kumar
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Post by kumar »

Whats the use of opening up a cheap power strip HEHE.... They are for free after rebate everyweek or something at walgreens, CVS, or other .. Or you can get one for like 10 bucks from anywhere...


Kumar
Will not be on forum until after June 15th.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

kumar wrote:Whats the use of opening up a cheap power strip HEHE.... They are for free after rebate everyweek or something at walgreens, CVS, or other .. Or you can get one for like 10 bucks from anywhere...


Kumar
Kumar,

Absolutely no reason to open it up except for two. moorreese's manner in talking about it is like the coupler blew it -IMPOSSIBLE. And the second reason is that due to my insecure nature I just want to verify that it was what blew not that some external device caused it to blow. Actually I just have a hard time with crap like that and not knowing the cause of something that could burn your house down or worse.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
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kumar
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Post by kumar »

Ah... I see...

Still curious on how the hell it warmed up in the first place...


Kumar
Will not be on forum until after June 15th.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

kumar wrote:Ah... I see...

Still curious on how the hell it warmed up in the first place...


Kumar
Yup - that is pretty much it. Working in industry for so damn long with their safety standards... well you know.

If something like that happened at work they would pull every strip in the house with the same make and model until a cause was found. And if no cause could be found just to keep their people safe and their insurance companies at bay they would probably replace them all with a new brand.

Gosh I love OSHA :wink:
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
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Post by HolmanGT »

Ponithog wrote:Likemagic

Does it matter the type of 100K resistor, I am looking at 1/4 or 1/2 watt choices and I wanted to make sure I get the correct one.

Does it make a difference?

Thanks


Ponti
Either wattage will be just fine. The 1/4 watt will fit in the coupler package a little easier.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
mcole44
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Inbound CID working fine until upgrade

Post by mcole44 »

I did the Snafu inbound CID fix and my CID worked great...until the upgrade. After the upgrade I found a few different issues.

1. The phone plugged in that doesn't have CID was the only one that would ring. ( I use whole house wiring)

2. My Uniden DECT 6.0 phones (2 of them) wouldn't even ring.

3. I changed the telephone wire from the snafu fix to a regular wire. Now all of the phones ring, but I don't have any CID!

Help!!!!
HolmanGT
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Re: Inbound CID working fine until upgrade

Post by HolmanGT »

mcole44 wrote:I did the Snafu inbound CID fix and my CID worked great...until the upgrade. After the upgrade I found a few different issues.

1. The phone plugged in that doesn't have CID was the only one that would ring. ( I use whole house wiring)

2. My Uniden DECT 6.0 phones (2 of them) wouldn't even ring.

3. I changed the telephone wire from the snafu fix to a regular wire. Now all of the phones ring, but I don't have any CID!

Help!!!!
MCole44,

I don't feel like searching, what is the "Sanfu Fix"?
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
mcole44
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Post by mcole44 »

It's the fix where you put the resistor on the green and red wires so that you get CID.
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

mcole44 wrote:It's the fix where you put the resistor on the green and red wires so that you get CID.
OK - Thanks. I figured that was what it was but not sure. Anyway You are the first (lucky you) that I have heard say it didn't just fix everything.

I used it myself for a time and it work very well then I went to a new Panasonic model they had on sale at Costco and found that I didn't need it any more with the new phone.

But your problem sounds like it may be more related to an under powered USB port. Have you tried a powered USB hub? There is one listed on this site for about $19 dollars the has a 2.2 amp power supply. If that doesn't make your system work as you want it to ... well I would be at a totally loss to provide any alternative suggestions.

My knee-jerk response is that failure to ring is strictly an under powered USB Port and failure to display caller ID, well that is a horse of a different color. That can be almost anything and if you are a DSL client that just compounds the problem. The resistor just acts as a "resistive termination". If your lines are noisy or someone used the wrong type of wire in your house the resistors function is to bring the lines impedance characteristics back to a more purely resistive load and a point for the ID signal to convert its self to a cleaner voltage level for the phone to see and identify as the caller ID signal.

My suggestion would be to disconnect the house wire and just get the thing working on one cordless system before branching out and attempting to pump the entire house from one weak kneed MJ device. Also you did disconnect the outside jumper that connect your house wiring to the Telco didn't you?
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
mcole44
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Post by mcole44 »

George:

Yes, I did unplug the wire from the telco outside. i did this about a month ago when I did the resistor fix. I also have powered USB hub. Everything was working great until the forced update came. Now when I use a telephone wire without the resitor, the phones ring, but no CID. However, when I use the wire with the resistor, my DECT phones won't ring but my non digital phone without caller ID will still ring. Looks like the upgrade didn't really upgrade me at all...
HolmanGT
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Post by HolmanGT »

mcole44 wrote:George:

Yes, I did unplug the wire from the telco outside. i did this about a month ago when I did the resistor fix. I also have powered USB hub. Everything was working great until the forced update came. Now when I use a telephone wire without the resitor, the phones ring, but no CID. However, when I use the wire with the resistor, my DECT phones won't ring but my non digital phone without caller ID will still ring. Looks like the upgrade didn't really upgrade me at all...
Holy Cow, if it wasn't for bad luck... :roll:

Check your PMs I sent you a private message.
- George -

HolmanGT - St. George, UT MJ-Area/Prefix 435-275
ooma-Area/Prefix 435-579
Baja Broadband, up-1mb dn-10mb, on days with a good tail wind.
MJ on HP T5730 2GBF/2GBR Thin Client XPe SP2 Router Dlink Dir-655
maxjivi05
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Post by maxjivi05 »

my Caller ID works but it don't show who's calling on the other line while we are on the phone but it shows up on the softphone... I tried this fix and it didn't do anything to help... does anyone know why it don't do that or away to fix it?
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