***New Mods T5730 a Dual-Core 64-bit CPU & PCIe G-card

krzysiek841 · Post by **krzysiek841** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:42 am

thats good

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 1:10 pm

There's another section of the new Linux forum I posted this question,
where it seems to have gotten more replies by more technically advanced Linux users.

http://www.murga-linux.com/puppy/viewto ... 203#802203

Maybe this issue will get more attention is this thread, than the other.

It's still not conclusively answered yet, as being BIOS or OS caused...
so... maybe one of the actual developers of a Linux 64 ISO (FatDOG himself)
may answer at some point, or one of his co-developers.

It's posted in their thread for FATDOG64

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:05 pm

I am glad the people on the linux forum are responding. If we can determine that it uses the memory in the same way as windows then we know it isn't a bios problem or at least it is specifically a bios problem related to windows. I actually have my GT7725 loaded up the way I want it now and connected to my flat screen. It is running my cable card tuner and is able to tune all of my cable channels in HD just fine. I am still going to look for a low profile HDMi graphics card to go into it so I can get audio and sound out on one cable. I ordered one of those cheap $5 chinese mini pci-e usb/sata cards to play around with even though the people on the polish site said that they were not able to get the 5730 to boot from the mini pci-e port with sata adapter.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:13 pm

T5735 wrote:I am glad the people on the linux forum are responding. If we can determine that it uses the memory in the same way as windows then we know it isn't a bios problem or at least it is specifically a bios problem related to windows. I actually have my GT7725 loaded up the way I want it now and connected to my flat screen. It is running my cable card tuner and is able to tune all of my cable channels in HD just fine. I am still going to look for a low profile HDMi graphics card to go into it so I can get audio and sound out on one cable. I ordered one of those cheap $5 chinese mini pci-e usb/sata cards to play around with even though the people on the polish site said that they were not able to get the 5730 to boot from the mini pci-e port with sata adapter.

It's possible other hardware factors are at play as well.
HP may not have wired the sockets for dual-channel mode.
It's possible Linux doesn't use it, and just adds each sockets totals.

But Windows may use the special BIOS routine ...
http://www.uruk.org/orig-grub/mem64mb.html
... to try placing the RAM in Dual-Channel mode, and crashes,
because of the wiring issue shown below...!

I just found two web links.
One explaining dual-channel mode,
and the 2nd explaining how some CPU's also play a part in RAM module timing,
and what may stop dual-channel from working.

When you get two identical 2GB sticks...
Maybe you can test your GT7725 with total 4GB, using CPUz, to see
if it mentions seeing both RAM sticks being in dual-channel mode, and correct clock speed.
That may hint how the RAM is wired, on our T5730/35, too.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimag ... mage=40149

(Page 9 at the link below)
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/ ... ures/133/9

On the first link, ...
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/ ... ures/133/3
... it says the sockets MUST be wired as parallel, to work in dual-channel mode.

That is... as 128 bits in parallel, not two on a 64 bit bus.

Like this...
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimag ... mage=40137

Not like this...
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimag ... mage=40136

I tried to see how the HP sockets are wired to the controller, but the chipset DataSheet
doesn't give any indication of the RAM controller. Unless it's actually built into the CPU.

In that case, I don't know if it's conflicting with the controller in the NorthBridge chip...
Or if it's simply interfaced to it for commands to the controller?
This is what else can cause more memory issues, besides a BIOS limit.

On the 2nd link, it explains that some CPU's get the RAM timing
by a different line of the CPU, that is determined by the multiplier,
instead of the dedicated clock.

So this can create an uneven doubling number of the RAM clock rate,
not operating the RAM at its full speed.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/328

I'll need to check the CPU he's trying to use if it's working as the above link shows those do.

While I got some answers from the Linux forum, there seems to be other hardware questions too, now.

krzysiek841 · Post by **krzysiek841** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 11:29 am

thats really god that they answear.
i do really like to finisz this project soon.
will se maybe i do put linux in it.
but we shall wait what the people wright.

momo · Post by **momo** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:19 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:thats really god that they answear.
i do really like to finisz this project soon.
will se maybe i do put linux in it.
but we shall wait what the people wright.

OK.
I think that both Linux sites I posted on have reached the limit of replies to my posts.

One of the developers for the FatDog64 replied, and said he didn't know any more than what he posted regarding my questions.

Here
http://www.murga-linux.com/puppy/viewto ... 634#802203

And here
http://www.murga-linux.com/puppy/viewto ... 634#802212

I did find out more from him, about the BIOS routine that controls the RAM, so even if dual-channel isn't possible on the T5730/35 because the sockets may not be, or are not wired for it, ...maybe it can work as the Linux OS does...to at least use the full amount of memory in both slots, without placing the RAM into dual-channel mode... eventually, if I need to alter the BIOS.

I also checked around the web, and came across a Microsoft forum were
someone said their Win7 Home Premium 64-bit OS system was only using
4GB of the 8GB in the motherboard.
Maybe Win8.1 has this same setting to try.

The TECHs reply was to check a setting in the MSCONFIG section
-----
"...Please check msconfig to see if max memory is checked. It should be unchecked.

To get to msconfig...
Press the Win key+"X" go to run option > type msconfig go to > advanced...in msconfig and uncheck max memory if checked..."
-----

Naturally you'll need to set this with just one 2GB stick, then after, see if two sticks work again.
I doubt it's this easy, but stranger things have happened with Windows OS.

@T5735
I found the info I was looking for regarding your GT7725.
A PDF on the specs show, in fact, it does support Dual-Channel mode.

Quoted from the PDF...
http://h20195.www2.hp.com/v2/getpdf.aspx/c04142181.pdf

"...2 GB dual channel system memory (256 MB reserved for graphics)..."

However, it just mentions 1GB sticks, but you may be lucky and 2x 2GB or more may be supported.

I'll need to see if I can do anything with the BIOS on the T5730/35 to at least
allow more than 3 GB total with Win 64-bit OS's
unless krzysiek841 tries that MSCONFIG setting and it fixes the issue.

By the way, I don't think the T5730/35 has the wiring needed to use dual-channel mode, but I'm still going to see if I can check the wiring by looking at the board trace, eventually.
--- I'm not going to take my working T5730 apart now, because it's the ONLY working full computer I have at the moment.

Anyway. That's it for now.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:24 pm

That would be great if that windows setting would fix it but with our luck I doubt it will.

I swear my GT7725 feels slower with the 2gb stick installed along with the 1gb stick. I think it may be for a number or reason with the main one being they are not running dual channel anymore and also the 2gb stick is pc5300 and the two 1gb sticks were pc 6400. I am going to swap in the 1gb stick and see how much it speeds it back up. So far it is running rock solid playing modern pc games at 60fps with no problems and a xbox controller.

momo · Post by **momo** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:38 pm

T5735 wrote:That would be great if that windows setting would fix it but with our luck I doubt it will. I swear my GT7725 feels slower with the 2gb stick installed along with the 1gb stick. I think it may be for a number or reason with the main one being they are not running dual channel anymore and also the 2gb stick is pc5300 and the two 1gb sticks were pc 6400. I am going to swap in the 1gb stick and see how much it speeds it back up. So far it is running rock solid playing modern pc games at 60fps with no problems and a xbox controller.

Yeah, that one site I posted a link from dealing with dual-channel mode said it was very important to use memory of the same speed, type.

So both need to be the same size, and rated speed. I don't know if brand matters, but it is possible. As well as how many chips are on each side of the stick.

It doesn't matter if you use faster memory than the GT7725 can use, I think, 'cause it will just operate at it's fastest speed the system was designed for anyway.

krzysiek841 · Post by **krzysiek841** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 12:09 pm

i tried this msconfig option to start with 2GB works normally with 1 stick
but with 2 stick still the same (restart after ~10 sec) tested with win 8.1

momo · Post by **momo** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 12:48 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:i tried this msconfig option to start with 2GB works normally with 1 stick
but with 2 stick still the same (restart after ~10 sec) tested with win 8.1

Thanks for testing it.
I had a feeling it may not fix it, ..but it was still a chance it would.

OK...I'll see if there's a difference in the T5730/35 BIOS from the GT7725
regarding the RAM control.

This may take quite a while, as I'm not a BIOS programmer, and need to learn it...plus
There may be a hardware wiring difference that will not allow it to work.

So if you need to use the system, you can still have the 3GB in for Win 64-bit
or use Linux 64-bit with 4GB

If anyone else reading this thread, has any info to add about this, don't hold back

Cheers for now --- MoMo.

momo · Post by **momo** » Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:47 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:hi gold test runned about 22hours no errors
i put 2 x 2GB in. The bios shows:
http://i59.tinypic.com/2ueh0qx.jpg
started mini windows xp from cd shows the same
but cpu-z shows ddr2 4096MBytes Dual ...
i tried to install win7 64bit - blue screen that the bios is not fully acpi compliant

i removed the second ram and bsod no more
after install will try to put it in again

ok i installed win7 x64 with 2gb ram then i put the second 2gb and i get a bsod again the - same one
i think its a compability problem how can i get the 4gb work ...
with 2gb in 1 socket and 1gb in second windows starts normally ...

I think a clue from a past post of krzysiek841 may show it's not the RAM,
or not only the RAM, doing this BSoD.

It may actually be, or ALSO be, the BIOS isn't fully ACPI Compliant.

The non compliance is true, because I can't put the T5730 into STANDBY mode...
-EDIT-
May also be called SUSPEND mode
...thru the OS, using the shutdown menu. Even under XP when I used that OS.
That option never showed on my T5730, but showed on my old Pentium 3 system.

Why it would make a difference with the two 2GB sticks used, I don't know.
But the Blue Screen info didn't mention the RAM was the cause of the BSoD,
according to krzysiek841.

I may need to install my 2nd socket with the associated smaller parts, to do tests.
It's difficult to keep asking krzysiek841 to try stuff.

Even if the two sockets aren't wired as 128 bits, for Dual-Channel,
both RAM should still work, just added, without Dual-Channel mode.

One last request to T5735
Can you see if the STANDBY (or SUSPEND) option shows on your shutdown menu of the GT7725
or do you just see RESTART - Hibernate - SHUTDOWN

If STANDBY shows, try it, then wake the system by moving the mouse or click a key.
If all works, I may also compare the BIOS section dealing with
the ACPI function in the GT7725

Maybe both the amount of RAM and the ACPI section play off each other some how on a 64-bit OS
I'm still not sure, but why would krzysiek841's BSoD mention the ACPI compliance issue.

@krzysiek841
Do you see the STANDBY (or SUSPEND) option in the shutdown menu, with 1 stick in either socket?
In any of the 64-bit or 32-bit OS's

krzysiek841 · Post by **krzysiek841** » Wed Oct 08, 2014 12:46 pm

in the windows 8.1 x64 is only restart or shutdown option
it could be an idea with acpi ...
but still didn't know why 4GB works with linux and windows not ...
do you think its acpi that could do the problem with ram in windows

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:13 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:in the windows 8.1 x64 is only restart or shutdown option
it could be an idea with acpi ...
but still didn't know why 4GB works with linux and windows not ...
do you think its acpi that could do the problem with ram in windows

I can't be sure, until I check more things out,
but your BSoD info when Win 7 (64bit) OS didn't boot,
showed it was an ACPI reason triggering it.

I'm just repeating what you said you saw on that Win 7 BSoD screen text.

Does it also show that in the BSoD using Win 8.1 (64bit) and both 2GB sticks?

I'm waiting to see what T5735 says about his GT7725 using Win 8.1 (64-bit)

His new computer is wired to work with Dual-Channel RAM.
I'm just curious if it also has full ACPI support too, and shows the SUSPEND (STANDBY) option as well.

This is why I may need to install the 2nd socket (with other small parts) on my T5730
There are too many questions I'd need answered during my tests, to keep
asking you or T5735 to try stuff for me.

If ACPI has a factor in it, it's possible it may also be a hardware limitation,
as well as BIOS.
But the RAM should still add both sockets together...this is what's strange to me.
The way Linux 64 works, at least. Even if Linux 64 is using PAE on its 64bit distro,
and not true Dual-Channel mode, it still adds both sockets totals without complaining with a BSoD.

I'd be happy to at least have Win 8.1 (64) work with 4GB or higher, even if dual-channel won't.
If that's a RAM control or ACPI issue, or BIOS limit, is what I need to find out.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:30 pm

I am actually posting from my GT7725 right now and the only thing it gives me on Win 7 Pro when I click the shut down menu is Switch User, Log Off, Lock, Restart and the Sleep option is there but you can not click on it. I went into my registry under power controls and it looks like I can probably enable hibernate if I really wanted to.

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:56 pm

T5735 wrote:I am actually posting from my GT7725 right now and the only thing it gives me on Win 7 Pro when I click the shut down menu is Switch User, Log Off, Lock, Restart and the Sleep option is there but you can not click on it. I went into my registry under power controls and it looks like I can probably enable hibernate if I really wanted to.

Interesting...!
The SLEEP option IS there, indicating the fact it's allowed.
It's most likely 'ghosted' because one of your hardware devices don't support it.

(Maybe the graphics board you added, or another added board)

But the OS saw your motherboard will support full ACPI function, and loaded those drivers.
You could activate hibernate thru the OS options too, no need for registry edits.

This is good news.
If it's a BIOS issue, I may be able to put the GT7725 ACPI BIOS routines into the T5730/35 BIOS.
That's total theory, and may not work if the hardware on the T5730/35 will complain, by not booting.

I need to install the 2nd socket in mine.

I have personal stuff needing to be finished here before I can do this.
Maybe several weeks to a few months, depending how soon the other things settle-down.
I'll let you all know.

Thanks for trying this, ...both of you.

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:09 pm

I may have found the commonality between ACPI and memory modules ...

The entire article
is at this link...> http://wiki.osdev.org/Detecting_Memory_(x86)

But because of the (x86) in the link, it doesn't go to the page,
simply be clicking it from this post

...

Instead, ... You can use this google search page link ... https://www.google.com/#q=acpi+memory+modules%3F
...and choose the link titled...
Detecting Memory (x86) - OSDev Wiki
Sep 24, 2014

Or simply copy (highlight) the full text of the wiki link, including the (x86) ..
..and paste it to your browsers URL box.

To summarize ...

Detecting Memory (x86)

One of the most vital pieces of information that an OS needs in order to initialize itself is a map of the available RAM on a machine. Fundamentally, the best way (and really the only way) an OS can get that information is by using the BIOS. There may be rare machines where you have no other choice but to try to detect memory yourself -- however, doing so is unwise in any other situation.

It is perfectly reasonable to say to yourself, "How does the BIOS detect RAM? I'll just do it that way." Unfortunately, the answer is disappointing:
Most BIOSes can't use any RAM until they detect the type of RAM installed, then detect the size of each memory module, then configure the chipset to use the detected RAM. All of this depends on chipset specific methods, and is usually documented in the datasheets for the memory controller (northbridge).

The RAM is unusable for running programs during this process. The BIOS initially is running from ROM, so it can play the necessary games with the RAM chips. But it is completely impossible to do this from inside any other program.

It is also reasonable to wish to reclaim the memory from 0xA0000 to 0xFFFFF and make your RAM contiguous. Again the answer is disappointing:
Forget about it. It is likely that some of it is being used regularly by SMM or ACPI. Some of it you will probably need again, even after the machine is booted. Reclaiming pieces of it would require a significant amount of motherboard- or chipset-specific control. It is possible to write a "chipset driver" that may allow you to reclaim a little of it. However, it is almost certainly impossible to reclaim it all. The minuscule results will not be worth the effort, in general.

It might be important to note that all PCs require a memory hole just below 4GB for additional memory mapped hardware (including the actual BIOS ROM). So, for a machine with >3G of RAM, the motherboard / chipset / BIOS may map some of that RAM (that would overlap mapped hardware) above 4G -- use PAE or Long Mode to access it.

krzysiek841 · Post by **krzysiek841** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:03 pm

i think that the problem is in bios because the bios do not full recognize the 4GB in bios i can see onle 3,5 ...
and when the bios didn't see 4GB then how could it transmit the info about 4GB in the os ...

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:07 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:i think that the problem is in bios because the bios do not full recognize the 4GB in bios i can see onle 3,5 ...
and when the bios didn't see 4GB then how could it transmit the info about 4GB in the os ...

Yet it still saw the full 4gb in linux?

momo · Post by **momo** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 2:49 pm

krzysiek841 wrote:i think that the problem is in bios because the bios do not full recognize the 4GB in bios i can see onle 3,5 ...
and when the bios didn't see 4GB then how could it transmit the info about 4GB in the os ...

The 32-bit version of Windows XP has an addressing limit with memory at 4GB and higher...
...and just shows 3.5GB being available. Even with ANY computer.

With Linux 32-bit, and even Linux 64-bit, the same limits aren't there, because it uses a different way to map the memory, maybe PAE sees it differently i don't know.

It's possible it is (only) a BIOS limit, but your BSoD mentioned the ACPI as the cause, so I'm just checking out why that's being reported by the BIOS

It's the BIOS that's reporting that, not the OS.
Maybe there are TWO(2) reasons it's happening with the T5730/35
The memory limit, AND an ACPI limit...
so I need to check out all reasons.

That's why I'll need to install the 2nd socket, w/ other small parts, to see how it acts with me.

For now though, I'm still trying to research all the reasons, while I'm waiting for my personal stuff to be finished,
then I'll start with the actual hardware mod for the 2nd socket on my system.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:17 pm

I am going to have to figure out some way to put a fan on the video card inside of the GT7725. It is running at around 103* C at idle but strangely it does not move much under load. The CPU is running a little hot as well at around 75 to 85 C as well but I think a good bit of that is bleed over from the video card being so hot on top of it. I am using this Radeon HD3450 that I won on ebay and it works alright but I am getting some freezing which I am pretty sure I can attribute to the video card being so damn hot. I have been looking around for a low profile heat sink and fan that will fit in the small confines of the thin client but so far no luck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281446556953?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

http://i.imgur.com/sfddrKM.jpg

momo · Post by **momo** » Sat Oct 18, 2014 1:29 am

T5735 wrote:I am going to have to figure out some way to put a fan on the video card inside of the GT7725. It is running at around 103* C at idle but strangely it does not move much under load. The CPU is running a little hot as well at around 75 to 85 C as well but I think a good bit of that is bleed over from the video card being so hot on top of it. I am using this Radeon HD3450 that I won on ebay and it works alright but I am getting some freezing which I am pretty sure I can attribute to the video card being so damn hot. I have been looking around for a low profile heat sink and fan that will fit in the small confines of the thin client but so far no luck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281446556953?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

http://i.imgur.com/sfddrKM.jpg

Those CPU and GPU numbers are really high.
that's on idle, not full HD playback? Wow..!

Here's mine, at idle, using the same Open Hardware Monitor program.
http://i.imgur.com/StIdBZI.jpg

Even when I'm playing back HDTV full screen ...
...I rarely see 100% of either CPU or GPU resources...and the heat stays low.

I do have a large 4 inch (120 mm) fan on the side, though,

blowing at around 5 or 6 volts of a 12 volt fan
http://i.imgur.com/xvnpEQl.jpg

I changed out the smaller one I had originally.
It was making too much noise, and not blowing much air.

If you need a thin fan to fit inside, you may want to look into the ones that
pull air in from the back and blow out the sides.
I don't know what the actual name of those are, but they can get rather thin
because of the air pattern.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sat Oct 18, 2014 1:35 am

Yea I am actually going to look tomorrow to see if I have some small fans to do exactly what you are saying and blow the air from one side of the case to the other. I am running the on board graphics in a crossfirex sli with the pci-e HD 3450 in that screen shot but later I disabled the on board graphics and the HD 3450 had almost the exact same readings. I ordered a cheap ($5 shipped) video card with a fan setup that I think will actually fit on my card without having to move any capacitors or anything so I am going to wait until that comes in the mail and try that before I go further.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281469887918?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

momo · Post by **momo** » Sat Oct 18, 2014 1:52 am

T5735 wrote:Yea I am actually going to look tomorrow to see if I have some small fans to do exactly what you are saying and blow the air from one side of the case to the other. I am running the on board graphics in a crossfirex sli with the pci-e HD 3450 in that screen shot but later I disabled the on board graphics and the HD 3450 had almost the exact same readings. I ordered a cheap ($5 shipped) video card with a fan setup that I think will actually fit on my card without having to move any capacitors or anything so I am going to wait until that comes in the mail and try that before I go further.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281469887918?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Yeah, these systems can't operate cool without some fan blowing on them ..
...especially when being operated at its full CPU speeds.

I'm never going to put it back into the case it was designed for.
It's too confining, and I'm happy with it as it is for now...sitting open like that.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sat Oct 18, 2014 11:37 pm

I bought some 1/2" thick aluminum today and I am going to make my own custom heat sink for the video card. I am going to add probably 2 fans to it so I need to know where I can pull power from the motherboard for the fans and do they have to be 5v or could I get away with a 12v fan pulling power from somewhere on the motherboard? I would like to possibly get a larger slower moving fan so it doesn't make much noise.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:49 am

T5735 wrote:I bought some 1/2" thick aluminum today and I am going to make my own custom heat sink for the video card. I am going to add probably 2 fans to it so I need to know where I can pull power from the motherboard for the fans and do they have to be 5v or could I get away with a 12v fan pulling power from somewhere on the motherboard? I would like to possibly get a larger slower moving fan so it doesn't make much noise.

You misunderstood me

not 5 volt fans...
12 volt fans, operating from a 5vDC source.

Usually a 12vDC fan will operate well at 5 to 6 vDC
without much noise, and adequate air movement.

Possible power locations for a 12vDC fan...(Operating at 5 to 6 volts)
http://i.imgur.com/9vCA6dL.jpg
TC33 - (lower right of photo)
TC13 - (upper right of photo)
These 2 capacitor Trace-Patterns are
not populated with the large electrolytic caps.
(I'm assuming it's 5 volts there, measure it if you can)
Don't use TC39 trace...it looks like it's in the 3.3v power area for the CPU

It's also possible these areas may not have enough current, (Amperage)
to power the fans, or may be powering a critical board area that can't be used
for this purpose, because it may generate noise on that voltage line.
In this case, use the method below.

BUT...

If this voltage range is found to not move enough air,
to keep temps down, you can connect the fan(s) to a 12vDC
source, like the main power connector socket pins, through
the use of a 5vDC regulator IC (7805) wired to allow
it to have a variable voltage out, from 5v to near 12vDC
using a 1k ohm 1/4 watt (or 1/2 watt) multi-turn potentiometer,
from the ground pin of the 7805 IC - (usually it's center pin)
to one side leg of a 1k ohm potentiometer.
(It can be a small linear taper type too, - multi-turn is for more accurate control)

Then, the other two potentiometer legs (center and other free end)
get connected to each-other, and those two get connected
to the source power ground, usually chassis ground, in this instance.

The 7805 IC then uses the V+ input pin and V+ output pin as usual.

This wiring scheme will create an adjustable output 7805 IC
not limited to regulating at 5vDC output

It's not the perfect way, but will work well for something this simple.

The 7805 regulator should be the TO-220 type, that supports 1Amp.
Depending on the fan(s) you use, it could suck almost 1/2 Amp...
...so use a heat sync on the 7805 if it gets hot.
Usually the small fans don't draw that much, but the 4 inch (120mm) do.

Heat-sync size - around 1 inch high x 1/2 inch wide x 1/2 inch thick
(This can be more, if you see more heat is generated by the fan(s) )

If you use the TO-220 type 7805 , there's a mounting hole tab on it.
Drill a hole in the aluminum, for a screw to mount the heat-sync you make,
to hold tight against the 7805 tab and entire IC back surface. Top to bottom.
It can be higher and wider than the IC, but should cover its entire back area.
Also apply some heat-sync grease, to help heat-flow to it.

**** the TO-220 type of 7805 IC has its mounting Tab connected to center-pin (GROUND)
So be careful not to touch the aluminum heat-sync ...
...to other areas on the board... including the chassis
when it's mounted to the IC, during operation.
Isolation from actual ground is needed so the floating ground is maintained,
to make the 7805 variable v+ out, and obviously touching any other voltage area
will short-out the power.

All these parts can be built onto a small prototyping perf-board,
so you can easily mount it where needed.

***
By the way.. Did you update to v2.03 BIOS on this GT7725

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 12:08 pm

Wow thanks this is exactly the info I was looking for. I was thinking about using those unused cap spots but was unsure if that would mess with anything on the motherboard. One of the cards I am going to try to use actually has a spot on it to plug in a 12v fan to it even though it only came with a heat sink so I will probably try it first but if I add another fan I will take the power off of the motherboard using one of the methods you listed above. I never did update the bios on the GT7725 but now that you mention it I probably will do that this afternoon just to see if it changes anything. I am wondering how big I can make this heat sink and have it still work? I mean is there a point where if you make it any larger it is the point of diminishing returns and it really wont help anymore? Thanks once again for all of the detailed info and I will try to post pictures of the heat sink when I have it done next week after I mill it with my end mill.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 1:59 pm

T5735 wrote:Wow thanks this is exactly the info I was looking for. I was thinking about using those unused cap spots but was unsure if that would mess with anything on the motherboard. One of the cards I am going to try to use actually has a spot on it to plug in a 12v fan to it even though it only came with a heat sink so I will probably try it first but if I add another fan I will take the power off of the motherboard using one of the methods you listed above. I never did update the bios on the GT7725 but now that you mention it I probably will do that this afternoon just to see if it changes anything. I am wondering how big I can make this heat sink and have it still work? I mean is there a point where if you make it any larger it is the point of diminishing returns and it really wont help anymore? Thanks once again for all of the detailed info and I will try to post pictures of the heat sink when I have it done next week after I mill it with my end mill.

The only concern with connecting to empty capacitor traces on the motherboard is if those areas have enough current (amps) to sustain the fan, without creating stress at that trace pattern by creating heat on them, during normal operation.

But if the fans don't take much current, it's not much of a problem.
Putting one fan connection on the board designed for it, from the card you bought, is good. It will relieve the added stress to the empty capacitor area for the other fan. (But that connection may be full 12volts)

Looking at the T5740/45 PCIe riser expansion card photo, ...they also have a fan connector on that board. So there's most likely several spots fans can be connected to, around spots of the motherboard.
But some may be 12 volts, not the 5 or 6 volts you may be looking for.

You can always make that 7805 variable voltage output circuit I mentioned, too.

Heat sink size isn't really too much of a problem, in that - will too big diminish efficiency. - It's more important that you create a heat-sink that can allow air to flow around it, not just a big block of aluminum.

Try to make some type of "fins" on the heat-sink, so the heat gets dissipated to the air more efficiently, by making ridges in the aluminum.
This creates more surface area around it.

I just realized I've been mis-spelling heat sink as... Sync... Ha ha.
That's what I get for making a 4:AM post on the web...

Maybe the BIOS update will un-ghost that "Sleep" option in the shutdown menu.
Or it may make other functions work better, or allow other cards to function better.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 19, 2014 6:54 pm

Some suggestions to make your Graphics card heat sink
(Or any heat sink, for that matter

)

If you can route grooves into one surface, as shown in the 1st PDF below,
(even both ways across ...left-right & front-back... on that one surface)
you'd make a very efficient high surface-area, to dissipate the heat,
using a fan above that surface, to move the air around it.

Heat sink design - Basic info and shape of one example
http://www.aavid.com/thermal-tools/how- ... t-heatsink

Getting more technical - shows more mechanical facts and various shapes
http://ocw.nthu.edu.tw/ocw/upload/77/ne ... tsinks.pdf

Really technical - Engineering aspect of it

with all the math facts too.
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/sprabi3/sprabi3.pdf

momo · Post by **momo** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:19 pm

For the times when you DO have an ISO,
or the original DVD or CD to pull the files from (and have made an ISO)

I found a USB Booter program that let's you make MULTI-bootable sessions from ISO files, and have it install on a USB stick...
It creates and shows a choice menu when all the Bootable ISO's are installed, for you to choose what ISO is going to bootup.

I've tried it with my Windows 8.1 Pro64 ISO - a FatDog64 Linux ISO - and an Acronis True Image 2014 Premium ISO.
All are shown in the menu, to boot from, and ALL work, just like booting from a CD

there are 2 best versions. .. the 'older' v2.0.0.6 --
http://pendrivelinux.com/downloads/YUMI ... .0.0.6.exe

-- and the 'newer' v2.0.1.0
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/downloads/ ... .0.1.0.exe

*** Depending on your ISO, you may need to use the older version, instead of the new one. ***
My Acronis True Image ISO wasn't seen by the newer version, as the other two were, but the older one created another boot option on the stick, and still worked with the others put on by the newer version.

It's wild..! ....
... Here's the main page to show you how to use it... yumi-multiboot-usb-creator
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/yumi-multi ... b-creator/

-----

Plus...

Here's a way to get the Windows 8.1 FULL install DVD, as an ISO file, ..this one still works..!

------
I've tested this, and checked the files linked at this other site, all is OK.
They are not changed, and both Setup files are originally from Microsoft.
------

The forum at...
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/18 ... reate.html
...actually saved the older setup EXE file that still let's you get Microsoft to give you an ISO option for saving the Windows 8.1 Update, so you can burn a DVD of it, and reinstall it later if your drive craps out.
Plus, the REPAIR option is available to you, having this original DVD. (ISO)

You can even use it to do a FULL install of Win 8.1 without needing to first install Win 8
But you'll need a Win 8.1 PREVIEW key to install, then you put your Retail Win 8.1 Product Key in, to activate it.
That other site links to that PREVIEW Key posting

But to even just not have to re-download the Win8.1 update, is great.

Basically, what they've found out is, starting the Win 8 download, first, with the file called Windows8-Setup.exe ...then stopping it when the download starts, and is at 0%, (you stop it by pressing the corner X on that window), THEN, run the original Win8.1 Setup EXE install file, called WindowsSetupBox.exe --(they have a download link for the original setupBox file) ... it saves your original key entered, from the Win8 setup file, to not ask again, for the Win 8.1 key required for that download, and continues to download, but this time it's getting the Windows 8.1 upgrade files.

After it's all done, it then asks you how you'd like to save it, and that's where you select to an ISO file.

if the process to get this Win 8.1 download didn't work for you, there are reasons, such as you may need to delete any hidden directories, created by a past different failed first attempt to get the files.
They show where these are, and how to remove those directories.

This linked site also has full instructions, with photos, and EVEN has a tool to create the ISO from the hidden ESD folder, at a later time.
The ESD-TO-ISO.zip file.

I've tried the normal Setup method download first...
...Two Thumbs UP..!!

It works..!

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:37 pm

Wow that is a pretty neat program that allows you to boot so many different iso's like that. I am going to have to look into that to play around with. I got in my different heat sink that has a fan on it. It was a little but to long to go on my card so I took out my dremel and cut it down by about 2cm. I am running it right now and it says the GPU cores are at 112*C and 113*C! I really don't know why the video cards are running so damn hot in this thing. I am guessing because it is so tight inside and it is basically sandwiched between two metal plates. I guess it doesn't help that there is a heat sink and fan below it radiating heat as well. I took the factory heat sink and fan off of the CPU and GPU's and cleaned all of the surfaces and put brand new arctic silver thermal paste on them to see if that would help. I don't see how the video card could be operating even hotter now when it has a larger heat sink and a fan operating on it now instead of just a small aluminum heat sink from before?
Edit: Well I just took the expansion module off and put the riser card in by itself to see if the fan was working and guess what it isn't turning. The only thing I can think of is that this card came from the factory only with a aluminum heat sink on it and no factory fan. It did however have a power port on it for a fan so I added this other ati heat sink and fan and plugged it into the port on the card. Maybe it has the port but it just doesn't have power supplied to it? I know that the riser card does supply enough power as the stock ATI card that came in the expansion module uses the exact same heat sink and fan setup just mounted differently than the one I am using and the fan on it works fine. I guess I am going to see if I can't somehow make up an adapter for this wire to go down through the case and draw power from one of those empty capacitor slots.
Second Edit: With just the card installed and the expansion module off I setup a hand held battery powered fan on the video card and the heat is sitting rock steady at 50*C and the thin client it working perfectly. My cable channels are changing almost immediately and my XBMC is working super fast with no freezing or any problems whatsoever. I guess I am just going to have to build me a larger aluminum heat sink and larger fan to make this work.

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:52 pm

Yikes, you've been busy with your project..!

Have you made ridges in the heat sink? The trick to it is to create more surface area than just making it a flat surface.

The smaller the heat sink needs to be, the more ridges it needs to have, to create more surface area on it.

The picture of one, similar to what I'm talking about, shows on that first heat sink link I put in my message before the one about the USB multi-session Booter.

If you can create ridges in both directions, it would make pillars of aluminum, rather than long craters. The pillars would have more separate surfaces on them, and the air would flow around the heat sink better with the fan on top of it.

But, fan size is also a factor.
If it's too small there won't be enough air flow to begin with.

That's why I put a fan blowing from the side of the ThinClient, rather than on any one component.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:56 pm

I have not started to make my heat sink yet I am just using a factory one from a different card that I modified by cutting off a few cm of its length. I used it because it was exactly like the one that came on the factory card that came in the expansion module only the mounting bolts were different allowing me to use it on my current video card with the slight modification to its length. The only problem is I plugged it into the on board power slot on my HD3450 that came from the factory with only a heat sink and no fan and it looks like that power slot is no good or is not wired up because the fan does not work. I am going to shop around for some larger slower moving fans and probably start to mill out my heat sink next week sometime that is if I don't just go ahead and buy a different video card with a heat sink and fan already on it that will fit.

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:07 pm

Did you check the polarity and voltage on that fan connector.
There's either no voltage on it, or you have the polarity opposite from what's needed to move the fan. You have a digital voltage meter, now's a good time to use it.

If you can get the fan working, it may still be too small to cool that graphics card to be usable, all by itself, and may still need a fan blowing on it from the side of the TC case.

momo · Post by **momo** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:06 pm

@T5735
These two Hardware monitor program screens pretty much tell the story.
It's cold outside, and near around 70 degrees F in the room.

http://i.imgur.com/f8yk9oC.png <---Open Hardware Monitor Output

http://i.imgur.com/IvHjcST.png <---CPUID Hardware Monitor Output

The Fan is running at around 6.5 volts, of the 12 volts,
this 4 inch (120mm) fan can work at.
http://i.imgur.com/xvnpEQl.jpg

I could probably operate the fan at 5.5 volts when it's 70 degrees in here.

If your systems idle temps will be high, as you've seen they are,
a small 2 inch fan alone, on the GPU board, won't be enough, even with
the heatsink you make, or use from another GPU board.

When ambient room temperature goes up, during the summer, or if your
room heat is coming up, just one little GPU fan won't be enough.

I think I remember reading your GT7725 chipset may have a fan control.
If it does, and you can find out where on the board that FAN CONTROL connector is,
that could be the best place to connect it, to blow from the side.

It may need a special 3 wire fan, (+ , - , and speed-sense) for that purpose,
or it may use the sensors to simply send more voltage to the fan connector,
with a normal two wire fan.

But I can see, from the idle temps you posted, it's going to get HOT in there.

momo · Post by **momo** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:56 pm

By the way... This post as well as others of mine ... are directed to everyone.
Not just a special few...unless I indicate the actual name(s) of who I am speaking to.

As as it turns out...this utility is nice but has several problems.

With some ISO files it strips the license key out, that is, the info from the legitimate key, and sees it as a non-registered version of the software.

With one of the ISO's I was able to have it boot using GRUB, and it fixed that issue (Acronis True Image Premium 2014)
But with another, (Active File Recovery Enterprise 64-Bit edition) nothing I do changes the fact that even though the key shows in the ISO within the bootable USB drive, when the program is booted, it doesn't see it as registered, and comes up asking for the registration info.

Even if I click the BootKey that's within the folder of the directory, it sees it without the registration info.
Looking inside the ISO of that program, using MagicISO, the key shows the correct registration information.

I'm also able to retrieve it from the 'C' drive of the actual program folder it's on, while booted in the ISO, and then the program continues to load with the proper registration info, but if the drive ever craps out, that key may not be accessible.

I sent an eMail to the developer, mentioning these two issues, and will see if I ever get an answer.
meanwhile, I'm still looking for a Multi-Session USB ISO booting utility that doesn't work Half-assed.

Oh well... Just when I thought I found the greatest thing since sliced bread.

momo wrote:For the times when you DO have an ISO,
or the original DVD or CD to pull the files from (and have made an ISO)

I found a USB Booter program that let's you make MULTI-bootable sessions from ISO files, and have it install on a USB stick...
It creates and shows a choice menu when all the Bootable ISO's are installed, for you to choose what ISO is going to bootup.

I've tried it with my Windows 8.1 Pro64 ISO - a FatDog64 Linux ISO - and an Acronis True Image 2014 Premium ISO.
All are shown in the menu, to boot from, and ALL work, just like booting from a CD

there are 2 best versions. .. the 'older' v2.0.0.6 --
http://pendrivelinux.com/downloads/YUMI ... .0.0.6.exe

-- and the 'newer' v2.0.1.0
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/downloads/ ... .0.1.0.exe

*** Depending on your ISO, you may need to use the older version, instead of the new one. ***
My Acronis True Image ISO wasn't seen by the newer version, as the other two were, but the older one created another boot option on the stick, and still worked with the others put on by the newer version.

It's wild..! ....
... Here's the main page to show you how to use it... yumi-multiboot-usb-creator
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/yumi-multi ... b-creator/

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 6:00 pm

I figured out that the on board HD 3200 would actually do exactly what I wanted to do and the only reason it was failing the HDCP check before was I was testing it on a really old monitor that was not HDCP compliant. I have it hooked up to my TV now and it played live HD television really well but I am having to use the 3.5mm audio jack for sound as I don't have the appropriate adapter to get sound through my DVI port to HDMI yet. I am having a big issue though and that is I can play HD TV for hours on end with no problems and the thin client can remain on over night and be totally fine but after I watch TV for about a hour or so if I go to change channels or simply stop the channel I am watching the thin clients screen will freeze and then go black and I have to hard reset after that as I can't do anything. I have looked in event viewer a bunch to try and figure out what the problem is but the only constant error message I get is kernel power event 41 which is pretty much from me having to hold down the power button to restart it. It there any type of other program I can run that will take a log of what is going on and possibly show me what is going wrong so I can fix it?

momo · Post by **momo** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:06 pm

T5735 wrote:I figured out that the on board HD 3200 would actually do exactly what I wanted to do and the only reason it was failing the HDCP check before was I was testing it on a really old monitor that was not HDCP compliant.

That's great, go figure, huh?!?

I have it hooked up to my TV now and it played live HD television really well but I am having to use the 3.5mm audio jack for sound as I don't have the appropriate adapter to get sound through my DVI port to HDMI yet. I am having a big issue though and that is I can play HD TV for hours on end with no problems and the thin client can remain on over night and be totally fine but after I watch TV for about a hour or so if I go to change channels or simply stop the channel I am watching the thin clients screen will freeze and then go black and I have to hard reset after that as I can't do anything.

Is this TV option working thru a separate hardware TV tuner?
Maybe there's an update to its software, or the driver.

Have you updated the Thin clients BIOS yet? (V2.03)

I have looked in event viewer a bunch to try and figure out what the problem is but the only constant error message I get is kernel power event 41 which is pretty much from me having to hold down the power button to restart it.

There's more than one type of event being monitored with that admin option.
Maybe one of the others may show something. If not, it may be some fault not caught by that event monitor.
Similar to our friend not seeing why the crash to blue-screen with the memory
issue had no event shown in the monitor log.

It there any type of other program I can run that will take a log of what is going on and possibly show me what is going wrong so I can fix it?

There very well may be, but it may be a hardware based log monitor.
It's difficult to expect the computer OS to log every event, if it craps out before it sees the event, it can't log it.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:11 pm

I am simply tuning from my HTPC over using a network tuner setup over my gigabit network. The computer isn't using any type of hardware at all it is just playing the signal. The HTPC and other media extenders is still playing TV fine at the same time this one crashes. I am glad you mentioned the bios. I had already gone ahead and made the usb dos bootable jump drive with the bios on it so I need to go ahead and do that now. The bios I am running right now is bios v 1.03.
Edit. I just updated my bios to the newest version so lets hope maybe that did something to help the problem.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:29 pm

The GT7720 must not have a temperature sensor for the GPU because I have used three different programs that monitor it and none of them have had a result for GPU temperature. I am thinking that the little on board HD 3200 is just getting to hot under the load of playing the HD video constantly. It can handle it while it is playing but once you do anything else to peak the load like stopping the video and doing something else it just dies. The CPU cores are peaking at around 80*C and they are right next to the GPU and share the same heat sink and fan so you know that it has to be hot. I am going to have to look into maybe adding another fan inside the case on top of the GPU or see if there is some sort of software that I can find that will allow me to change the speed at which the factory fan spins. When I turn the system on in the morning after it has been off all night the entire setup works flawlessly for about 30 to 40 minutes before I encounter the freezing problems so that is why I think it is a heat problem. The only other thing I could think of that would be making it overheat is I have that little bare 64GB SSD crammed in there with its IDE cable and adapter. I wonder if that could be contributing to more heat or simply messing up with the heat flow?

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:45 pm

T5735 wrote:The GT7720 must not have a temperature sensor for the GPU because I have used three different programs that monitor it and none of them have had a result for GPU temperature. I am thinking that the little on board HD 3200 is just getting to hot under the load of playing the HD video constantly. It can handle it while it is playing but once you do anything else to peak the load like stopping the video and doing something else it just dies. The CPU cores are peaking at around 80*C and they are right next to the GPU and share the same heat sink and fan so you know that it has to be hot. I am going to have to look into maybe adding another fan inside the case on top of the GPU or see if there is some sort of software that I can find that will allow me to change the speed at which the factory fan spins. When I turn the system on in the morning after it has been off all night the entire setup works flawlessly for about 30 to 40 minutes before I encounter the freezing problems so that is why I think it is a heat problem.

Yeah, I think so too.
80 degrees C is really hot. When I have my fan off, my T5730 CPU gets 67 C

I'm suggesting you put a 4 inch (120mm) fan blowing in from the side, and don't put the enclosure on, covered. You may need to make some other arrangement to enclose it, if you want it closed...but blowing air in from the side will cool it down a lot.

Smaller fans don't move enough air to run them at a lower speed.
The 120 mm (4 inch) fan moves much more air and works well at 5 to 6.5 volts using a 12volt 4 inch fan

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:49 pm

I am actually thinking about taking the metal plate off the top and then putting the expansion module on it with some sort of fan inside of it blowing down. Since I am not using a pci-e graphics card I can put a pretty large fan in there and I can move the SSD up to it to improve airflow. I have a AA powered hand held fan just sitting on top of it now blowing down in through the little plastic holes on the top of the case and it seems to be operating fine. Have not had a freeze in half a hour.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:59 pm

T5735 wrote:I am actually thinking about taking the metal plate off the top and then putting the expansion module on it with some sort of fan inside of it blowing down. Since I am not using a pci-e graphics card I can put a pretty large fan in there and I can move the SSD up to it to improve airflow. I have a AA powered hand held fan just sitting on top of it now blowing down in through the little plastic holes on the top of the case and it seems to be operating fine. Have not had a freeze in half a hour.

That may be a good idea, as long as the little holes in the expansion metal don't restrict too much air flow.

But definitely it's an air flow issue, with the heat-buildup, and lock-up issue.
If you leave it that hot, eventually the solder-balls on the large IC's will loosen up, and give freezing problems even at low temps.

I read that every 10 degrees C , higher than design spec, shortens the life of the IC by 1 or 2 years if it's kept that way.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:02 pm

@T5735

If you're going to have more room inside now, I'd also suggest you make that 7805 regulator IC speed control circuit I mentioned.

This way you'd have a variable speed fan control you can change, if more air is needed when the expansion enclosure is put on.

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:02 pm

momo wrote:
T5735 wrote:I am actually thinking about taking the metal plate off the top and then putting the expansion module on it with some sort of fan inside of it blowing down. Since I am not using a pci-e graphics card I can put a pretty large fan in there and I can move the SSD up to it to improve airflow. I have a AA powered hand held fan just sitting on top of it now blowing down in through the little plastic holes on the top of the case and it seems to be operating fine. Have not had a freeze in half a hour.
That may be a good idea, as long as the little holes in the expansion metal don't restrict too much air flow.

But definitely it's an air flow issue, with the heat-buildup, and lock-up issue.
If you leave it that hot, eventually the solder-balls on the large IC's will loosen up, and give freezing problems even at low temps.

I read that every 10 degrees C , higher than design spec, shortens the life of the IC by 1 or 2 years if it's kept that way.

Yea I have dealt with the whole BGA solder balls in the past with game consoles. I found this fan that I got for free with a motherboard just now and I think I can make it fit inside of the case. If I have to I will take my drill and make some more holes in the top of the case for better airflow.
http://www.quietpc.com/ac-arctic-f9-pro-pwm

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:09 pm

T5735 wrote:
momo wrote:
T5735 wrote:I am actually thinking about taking the metal plate off the top and then putting the expansion module on it with some sort of fan inside of it blowing down. Since I am not using a pci-e graphics card I can put a pretty large fan in there and I can move the SSD up to it to improve airflow. I have a AA powered hand held fan just sitting on top of it now blowing down in through the little plastic holes on the top of the case and it seems to be operating fine. Have not had a freeze in half a hour.
That may be a good idea, as long as the little holes in the expansion metal don't restrict too much air flow.

But definitely it's an air flow issue, with the heat-buildup, and lock-up issue.
If you leave it that hot, eventually the solder-balls on the large IC's will loosen up, and give freezing problems even at low temps.

I read that every 10 degrees C , higher than design spec, shortens the life of the IC by 1 or 2 years if it's kept that way.
Yea I have dealt with the whole BGA solder balls in the past with game consoles. I found this fan that I got for free with a motherboard just now and I think I can make it fit inside of the case. If I have to I will take my drill and make some more holes in the top of the case for better airflow.
http://www.quietpc.com/ac-arctic-f9-pro-pwm

Yeah, that's good to start with. 92mm (3.5 inch) fan is better than a 2inch fan

Hey, you may have missed my last post, when you posted your last one.
We must have hit the SEND button within a micro second of each-other.

http://www.phoneservicesupport.com/post84725.html#84725

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:12 pm

I probably will wire up a regulator so I can control it. I wonder instead of making one if something like this would work alright? http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Computer-12 ... 23427c4702

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:24 pm

T5735 wrote:I probably will wire up a regulator so I can control it. I wonder instead of making one if something like this would work alright? http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Computer-12 ... 23427c4702

You really like that Hong Kong china stuff, huh?

Yes it's basically the same thing, but if you make your own, it won't be as large as that one looks.

It's really up to you if you want to wait for it to come-in from china 2 to 3 weeks from now. And the seller has a 97% rating

It's not really very difficult to make your own though.
You may even be able to find plans on the internet.

Try googling ... 7805 regulator 12v fan speed control

https://www.google.com/#q=7805+regulato ... ed+control

Pictures show on this search link

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:27 pm

Here's one that shows nicely
http://www.pcsilencioso.com/cpemma/reg.html

T5735 · Post by **T5735** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:28 pm

momo wrote:
T5735 wrote:I probably will wire up a regulator so I can control it. I wonder instead of making one if something like this would work alright? http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Computer-12 ... 23427c4702
You really like that Hong Kong china stuff, huh?

Yes it's basically the same thing, but if you make your own, it won't be as large as that one looks.

It's really up to you if you want to wait for it to come-in from china 2 to 3 weeks from now. And the seller has a 97% rating

It's not really very difficult to make your own though.
You may even be able to find plans on the internet.

Try googling ... 7805 regulator 12v fan speed control

https://www.google.com/#q=7805+regulato ... ed+control

Pictures show on this search link

Yea I don't really mind having to wait but I just went ahead and ordered this one from a US seller for $4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-Black-CPU ... 4acc3cde96
I hope I can make that fan work inside of the case but if not I have a box somewhere at work with probably 50+ fans of different sizes.

momo · Post by **momo** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:40 pm

T5735 wrote: Yea I don't really mind having to wait but I just went ahead and ordered this one from a US seller for $4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-Black-CPU ... 4acc3cde96
I hope I can make that fan work inside of the case but if not I have a box somewhere at work with probably 50+ fans of different sizes.

The only difference is, you'll wind-up cutting those 3 prong connectors off, to attach the wires to your 12 volt input to the regulator.

And unless your fan has a connector, like is on the regulator you purchased, you may need to cut that off too..!

Oh well...!

It's amazing how much the mark-up is from the china one, and the US one.
Customs, duty tariffs and other taxes added into the US

Either way, it would have been similar costs if you made it yourself.

magicJack and magicJack Plus Support, Reviews, FAQs and Tricks

***New Mods T5730 a Dual-Core 64-bit CPU & PCIe G-card

This is way too wild. A Multi-Session USB Booter utility.

Ambient room temperature plays a big part in idle temps too.

Re: This is way too wild. A Multi-Session USB Booter utilit